Got up bright and early to go and see a man about a boat – Wayne had organised someone to take me over to Antigua in a speedboat for US$500 – only, this being the Caribbean, he didn’t show up. So I spent the morning listlessly roaming around and then gave up entirely and spent the afternoon at Wayne’s house watching reruns of CSI waiting for the phone to ring. It didn’t ring.
I’m WAY WAY WAY behind schedule now, I should be in Central America and I’m not – I’m stuck on an island miles from anywhere that has about 3 boats on it.
But Wayne remained upbeat that I’d get a ride today. We headed down to the marina at 9am and asked one of the guys who worked there if he knew of any boats going to Antigua. Yeah – that one. He pointed to The Vagrant, a yacht sporting a Canadian flag.
We wandered over and spoke to the captain, Grant Gordon. I explained what I was doing and he said jump aboard, we leave in 10 minutes.
I was so grateful, I nearly cried.
I ran back to Wayne’s, grabbed my stuff and jumped on the boat. I was introduced to Jim and Freda who were sailing with Grant and we were off on our way to Antigua.
Now…Antigua is upwind and against the current. It’s not far, but it took all day and all night to get there. I haven’t been seasick since the September Song and I was alright on the Vagrant, so I was quite an enjoyable jaunt with some really lovely people.
But if I’m going to finish this thing within a year, I can’t be wasting three days in each port and then travelling at 4mph to my next destination. I’m really starting to panic.
Arrived early in Antigua, but by the time passport formalities, etc. were all done, it was about 10am. I headed to the city centre and met with Brian Ho, a young journalist who did an interview with me for the local paper, the Antiguan Sun. Then I started hitting the cargo companies to see if anything was heading towards the Dominican Republic. There was something, but it left yesterday. I felt sick. There was nothing else for over a week.
So I headed back to the Marina and started asking around – nothing. Unlike St. Kitts, there are HUNDREDS of yachts here on Antigua, but none would take me west.
You’ve got to understand how demoralising it is to walk around for hours asking everyone you meet if they can help you and the answer always being no.
A bit of good fortune though – I met a guy called Neil Rock who’s a fellow scouser, who agreed to help me and I also hooked up (thank you couchsurfing.com!!) with Cristal Clashing, a local girl (and Antiguan shipping champion) who offered me somewhere to crash for the night at her dad’s place. It was a wonderful house and the spare bed was so big, I could lie in the middle of it and stretch out both arms and not touch the sides. Nice!
Cristal and I hit the streets looking for a way off the island. We even had a half-hour segment on the local radio station. We then spent the rest of the day trying to find a cargo ship – we thought we had found one leaving for Puerto Rico tomorrow. Perfect.
There’s always a ‘but’, isn’t there! US immigration (Puerto Rico is a US dependency) have changed their visa rules and now anyone arriving in a private vessel must have a US Visa (you’re alright on scheduled transport). So it was a big no, no.
I headed back to the Marina on the other side of the island – surely somebody there could help? No. I asked and I pleaded and some people said they would do all they could to help; others just couldn’t care less.
Unlike the other islands, there are loads of people my age on Antigua. They work as crew on the big, big yachts that cost upwards of twenty million pounds. But to get on one of these boats isn’t easy, and at this point, I’d settle for a rowboat.
The sailboats (a better option) were all moored out in the water, so I could just ask from the jetty if anyone was going to St. Martin, the British Virgin Islands or anywhere really.
My sense of panic and despair is rising rapidly. You can only be told ‘no’ so many times before your whole demeanour changes – you find yourself expecting the answer to be no. Where was my Annette? My Wayne? My nice lady from the shipping company to help me out?
Antigua is such a beautiful island. I wanted to be able to enjoy it in the knowledge that I had my passage sorted. But I didn’t, and things were about to take a turn for the worse…
Once again, I stayed at Christal’s dad’s house, but not before I attended a ballroom dancing lesson down the road. Seriously! Christal’s dad, Owen, cooked me an amazing dinner (seafood pasta) which was such a breath of fresh air after three weeks of fried chicken and rice (it’s all they eat on these islands. You know…Trinidad has more KFCs per capita than any other country on Earth!) and to sleep in that bed again… ahh… bliss…
But I couldn’t sleep…
My hair was beginning to fall out about ever finding a way off this island.
Maybe if I went to see Stan’s Barely-Used Ship Emporium and got the swordmaster, the talking tattoo guy and the guy I sprang from jail (using the highly acidic grog passed from cup to cup whilst running from the Scumm Bar) to be my crew.
I forgot to say, yesterday I lost my hat. Hat4. It blew off my head as we were leaving Owen’s house and I thought Christal picked it up, but she didn’t. Luckily it was still there at the side of the road 12 hours later when we returned. Phew. Sorry, Hat4, I’ll be more careful in future. I can’t go gallivanting off around the world without a silly kangaroo hat. It would be most unbecoming.
In the morning I said my goodbyes to Christal, her dad and her mum, Edith. I headed back to the Marina at English Harbour DETERMINED to leave on a boat TODAY.
I started by asking around every single boat I could reach, visiting every yacht club, every charter company, anything and everything I could find. This afternoon, I camped out at the immigration offices asking everybody who came in if they could give me a ride west. No, no, no and no.
But I had my supporters. I was now in the local paper, so all the bus and taxi drivers recognised me and cheered me on. Jackie from Horizon Yacht Charters offered me a yacht FOR FREE if I could find a crew, but it wouldn’t leave until Saturday. Andrew from Superyacht Publications was on the case, and it looked like I was going to be able to hitch a ride onboard The Moonbird – a FIFTEEN MILLION POUND superyacht.
Excited by this prospect, I tried to get off the passenger list for the boat I came in on.
But immigration had other ideas. I needed the captain of the Vagrant to sign me off. But captain Grant flew back to Canada yesterday. I almost had a nervous breakdown. Antiguan immigration has a reputation for pulling stunts like this, god knows why they do it – Antigua’s sole industry is tourism – it’s a bit like Saudi Arabia putting sugar in their petrol – why would they bother?
I had a stand up row with immigration, which culminated in me storming out – see ya later Antigua – no, I don’t need an exit stamp, I’m never coming here again, my lawyer will send you a fax tomorrow. GOODBYE.
I ran in the hot afternoon sun, weighed down by heavy bags, sweating and panting, towards the Moonbird – my passage off this infernal rock… when my phone buzzed in my pocket. It was a text from Lorna in the UK.
The captain may have said yes, but the owner said no.
For the love of god!
A third night in Antigua. This may undermine my manly credentials somewhat, but I had a little cry. A third night roaming the bars asking and asking and asking. And to make matters worse, I had lost my wallet. Christ on a bike, what’s with this island?! Hundreds of boats… none of them going my way… if I hadn’t seen such riches, I could live with being poor…
But I still had people barracking for me.
Joanne, the lovely lady who used to run the Last Lemming bar down by the harbour gave me a couch for the night, and Cap’n Rocky, the helpful scouser (also a Kopite, he threw a bottle of water over me at the end of the derby – ha!) and his mate Gaz bought me a beer or two to drown my sorrows. Thanks guys.
But there was rumour afoot – a small sailboat called the ‘Monparess’ was leaving tomorrow at noon and they had been in the Waterfront Hostel to say they’d take me. I called out on CB radio channel 68 for them “Monparess, Monparess, Monparess. Waterfront Hostel.”
But no reply. We would have to see what tomorrow would bring. I’m now two weeks behind schedule.
I scrambled like a fighter pilot down to the harbour. I have to leave today. I have to leave today. I stopped at the Waterfront Hostel on the way, attempting to contact the ‘Monparess’ boat, but no reply on the radio. Damn. Had to go back to immigration with my tail between my legs after yesterday’s little spat. The lady in immigration gave me the kind of dressing down I hadn’t experienced since primary school. The good news – they had my wallet. I had left it there when I stormed out. The bad news – they still weren’t going to take me off the crewlist until I showed up with captain Grant (who is still a few thousand miles north of us at this moment in time).
Outside I bumped into Andrew, the incredibly helpful guy from SuperYacht Publications who almost got me on the Moonbird yesterday. He told me that the Leander was heading west today, he knew the captain really well and he might be able to give me a lift.
I remember years ago my brother Mike telling me that the guy who owns the biggest yacht in the world was the guy who set up NCP car parks, the bane of my architectural disposition. Well, it’s not the biggest in the world anymore, but it’s called The Leander and here’s a chance for me to hitch a free ride on the physical manifestation of a million Britons being forced to park their cars in brutalist concrete monstrosities.
Oh, the irony. Andrew said he’d see what he could do.
By this point, I hadn’t eaten in over 36 hours and my legs where about to give way so I walked over to the fruit stall to buy myself some pulpy sustenance. On the way back, one of the many, many people whom I had spoken to over the past four days, shouted me, “you found a boat yet, mate?”
“You have now. We leave in two hours. We left a message for you at the Waterfront Hostel.”
“Are you the Monparess?”
“No – we’re on the Mariposa.”
No wonder the Monparess wasn’t answering – it didn’t exist! Monparess, Montserrat, Mariposa, Villa Rosa, Lollapalooza… the important thing was – I had a boat! FINALLY, I HAD A BOAT!
But, immigration. Damn intransigent immigration. If I left without signing off the crewlist, Grant wouldn’t be able to take his yacht out of country next week – and I couldn’t sign off the crewlist without Grant. The original Catch-22. The boat, the Vagrant, was still in harbour – being looked after by Grant’s friends Jim and Freda. Immigration suggested I get in touch with them.
So as Kerri and Andrew of the Mariposa waited patiently at the harbour-side café, I got back on the radio, “Vagrant, Vagrant, Vagrant…”
The harbourmaster suggested I go out into the harbour to get them. But his dingy was punctured. There must be some other way.
The immigration guy came with me down to the jetty to hitch a ride. A girl (who also asked if I had found a boat yet) was just pulling in on her dingy when immigration and I commandeered the boat on behalf of the British Empire. Well, we asked her really, really nicely if she’d take us to The Vagrant and she said yes.
We put-put-putted over to the boat. “Hello?! Jim? Freda?”
They weren’t there. I climbed aboard (thereby technically invading Canada) and left a note.
On the way back to shore, I couldn’t look immigration in the eye – I was nearing the end of the second act of a John Hughes film. The long, dingy ride of the soul. Immigration tapped me on the knee. It will be all right.
I had to explain the situation to Andrew and Kerri and then I headed back to the immigration office for one last push. The lady who had reprimanded me earlier asked if I had a boat.
“Yes, yes I do!”
“Then you can go. We’ll take you off the list.”
Thank the dark lord of bureaucracy. Within half an hour, I was on the Mariposa sharing a packet of McVites Ginger Nuts with Andrew and Kerri.
And slowly, but surely, we were heading towards St. Martin. We passed the Leander as we left the harbour. I wasn’t lording it up on some mega-yacht, but who cares…?
Kerri is a Kiwi and Andrew is British, but lived in South Africa for many years. We had spent the night sailing, eating Pringles and chewing the fat – politics, religion, and why the Caribbean has no damn ferry services…
I was going to take watch for a few hours, but they let me sleep. We reached St. Martin in the morning.
St Martin’s a funny place – a tiny island split horizontally between two countries; France and the Netherlands. It has two dialling codes, two currencies (Euro and US Dollar), different mobile networks depending which ‘side’ of the island you’re on.
Put bluntly, St. Martin (or Sint Maartin if you’re Dutch) is a little silly. Plus, it’s not a nation, so I have no intention of spending more than a few hours here.
My new friends on Antigua helped me out with some contacts and Dino got in touch with a company that runs charter boats up to the British Virgin Islands. They had a boat I could hitch onboard and it was leaving today at 4.30pm.
So I dragged poor Kerri (sorry Kerri) all the way to the other side of the island only to discover when we got there that the boat wasn’t leaving until tomorrow at 4.30pm.
Something had gotten lost in translation.
By then it was too late to find an alternative, so I had to bite the bullet. It’s a guaranteed jaunt off this island, and after Antigua, I’m not looking that particular gift horse in the mouth.
Kerri and Andrew agreed to let me kip on their boat and for the first time in god-knows-how-long, I can relax and write up my blog and edit my vlog safe in the knowledge that my onward passage is sorted.
So now I’m sitting out on deck. It’s dark but the moon is bright above. Kerri and Andrew are watching House on their laptop down below. It sounds like the episode where Foreman messes up and the woman dies. The wind is picking up.
I was going to work late into the evening, but I ended up crashing out at about nine like a big sissy. But that’s alright – I woke up at 4am, made sure Mandy was alright after hearing about the terrible bush fires in Australia, watched the latest episode of ‘Lost’ on youtube (hurrah for YouTube!) and got on (finally) with editing Week 4.
There is just so much stuff I had to edit out – exactly four hours and fifty minutes worth of stuff! For this reason, I’m going to be editing and uploading The Odyssey Encounters – snippets of the people I’ve met on the road and other random stuff. I hope you all enjoy them as they filter out…
Kerri and Andrew woke at about 9am – Andrew, the hero he is, made breakfast – beans, hash brown, SAUSAGES!! Bliss.
We had a good chat about the remaining logistics for the Caribbean and I’ve decided it’s best to attack the Bahamas from Florida rather than Dominican Republic.
I also got to meet their friends from the US – Bill and his young son Ben (as in the flowerpot men) randomly pulled up alongside the Mariposa to say hello – the yachties have got a great little community over here, they all know at least a few people on each island they visit. I like that.
But before long I was in the dingy saying my goodbyes to Andrew and Kerri as I headed off to Oyster Pond to hitch my lift to the British Virgin Isles.
I’m now aboard Vivo Libre with Sylvie, my French captain, Cyril a fellow freerider (and fellow couchsurfer) and Terry, an Irish skipper who has lived in St. Martin for the last seventeen years. The sails are up, the boat is rocking and rolling all over the shop, it’s very cloudy, but the moon is fat and bright and tomorrow I will wake in Tortola, the main British Virgin Island. One step closer to Panama.
What a day. We arrived in Tortola, the main British Virgin Island, nice and early, and before long I was on a ferry (YES, A FERRY!!) heading over to St. Thomas, which is in the US Virgin Islands. On the way over, I got chatting with a British guy named Oliver. He was heading over to St. Thomas so he could renew his entry stamp to the British Virgin Islands, the joke being that as a Brit, he can only stay in the BVIs for one month, but he can stay in the USVIs for three!
Tonight on Tortola is the full moon party at Bomba’s Hut on the beach. Everyone gets wrecked on (legal) mushroom tea and then all the girls take their clothes off. At least that’s what it said in the Lonely Planet.
It sounded great!
Oliver said I could crash at his friend’s house, so I had a plan. I would see if I could get transport to Puerto Rico or the Dominican Republic from the US Virgin Islands. If not, I would hightail it back to Tortola in the BVIs and dance the night away hallucinating my head off.
First I head to the ferry companies – any ferries running to Puerto Rico? Nope – there’s one that runs twice a month, which you can get next Saturday. Bah! So then it was a long walk to the Cruise Ship harbour and Lorna Brookes in the UK making frantic phone calls to try and get me on board a ship that was heading for the Dominican Republic. The girl at the PR company said yes. WOO!
I just had to wait for the captain to okay it. I waited. And waited. And waited.
Eventually, I went over to the ship to ask someone to ask the captain to check his emails. Eventually, he did. Eventually, somebody came off the ship to tell me what was happening. Eventually, they said no.
They said there wasn’t enough time to clear security (having my eyeballs scanned and my fingerprints taken by US immigration is obviously not enough to prove I’m not Osama Bin Laden!). If the captain had checked his emails earlier, I’d be on my way to the Dominican Republic by now.
I watched the ship pull out the harbour into the setting sun and looked at my watch – 5:30pm. I checked the ferry times back to the BVIs. The last one had left…at 5:30pm.
Oh for crying out loud!
I ran as fast as my legs could carry me (and my bags) to the ferry dock. But the last ferry had indeed gone. As had my chance to go to the full moon party, as had my place to sleep for the night. I went to a bar on the harbour side, frantically couchsurfing everyone on the island. By 11pm, I’d still had no replies.
The cheapest (!) hotel was $100 a night, and it was full. I had nowhere to stay, nowhere to go. I wandered the streets for hours until I eventually found a hotel and sat in the open-air reception area. A cute American girl named Val asked what I was doing – the hotel was full. I explained my situation and she said I could sleep on one of the nearby sun lounges. I stuffed my bags under it and fell asleep, praying that all my stuff would be there in the morning. I was lying just a few metres in from the main street and there was no gate.
A heavy dew had formed on me and my bags in the night. I prised myself up off the sun lounger and headed for a nice hot cup of tea. The Beans, Bytes and Websites café was just what I needed – Internet access and hot drinks. I may have missed the boat and the full moon party, but I was getting off this island today!
Or so I had convinced myself.
But as the day wore on, it became more and more obvious that I was to spend a second night in the US Virgin Islands. They’re not even a proper nation, for heaven’s sake! Over 40 days in and I was still trying to get on a boat to travel all of 60 miles or so. Luckily for me, the staff of the Beans, Bytes and Websites café took me in. Monique and Sarah offered me a couch each, as did Solomon, a BB&W regular. We grabbed a Roti for lunch and as the day drew on and my hopes became more and more dashed like biblical babies on the rocks, I went and got my beard trimmed because I was sick of looking like Herman Toothrot!
I dropped my stuff off at Sarah’s and we went out for scrummy dinner with a couple of her mates. Like in real life!
St. Thomas has a pretty bad rap – it comes bottom of a list of ‘most beautiful islands’ published by National Geographic in 2007. However, the old town (where I was staying) is really quite pleasant – although the plethora of jewellery shops that adorn the old arcades is rather crass. The streets still have their old Danish names (the yanks bought St. Thomas from the Danish about a hundred years ago) and still retain a lot of character. The concrete shopping malls down the promenade, though – urgh! Someone – please – stop this madness!
Do folks really come to the Caribbean to admire the way it’s exactly the same as home? Or do they come here because they want to get away for a few days. The world is becoming a much smaller place – but that doesn’t mean that the homogenisation of human culture into a big concrete hamburger is a good thing.